Dia 9: Douro Wine Country
Locks StopWe are on our way again, this time heading to the Duoro Valley. We have a longer bus ride this morning so we settle in and get comfortable. The landscape is changing as we travel north and becoming scenic with magnificent terraces lined with grape vines. Our breath escapes us as we look out the window. Of all the places we've seen in Portugal, this is the most beautiful. It is still spring so everything is verdant and lush. We stop a little over halfway into our trip to stretch our legs. Cristina shows us a dam with locks, built along the river to allow traffic from upper regions. According to Cristina, the Duoro (DOH-roo) "is the river down that makes the lakes."
Quinta Farm VisitThis region is known as the valley of the wines - sparkling, red, white, port, moscatel, table wine. The variety of grapes is what differentiates wines. Soil, exposure to sun, humidity and heat is what makes Duoro wines unique. Port is fortified wine. They stop the fermentation process and add brandy. Ruby is aged in huge barrels. Tawny has more wood flavor because it's aged in smaller barrels. The contact with wood is what gives it the amber/honey color. They make white port by taking out the skins.
Did you know ... Port wine is the most controlled wine in the world. The Port Wine Institute grants permission to produce a vintage. The vintner sends in a sample and they are told they can make X number of bottles. The institute provides labels and will track when it's bottled. The vintner saves the rest and calls it the "mother wine". They save it for bad years or leave it in stainess steel and make it LBV - late bottle vintage. We meet Teresa, owner of the farm we are visiting today. She is the 4th generation of this family and has the same passion, love, belief in the family product as her ancestors. They do all parts of production at this farm. She points to a monument and tells us it's from 1756 - the oldest part of the region. They grow oranges, plums, pears, lemons, peaches, apricots, hazelnuts, cherries, olives, almonds and of course grapes. They are only allowed to plant a vineyard where there was one previously and have to ask permission. The vines are planted in/on steps surrounded by olive trees to protect them. It's not a rich soil so if it rains a lot, it would be a washout. As they age, the vines produce less but it's very intense. Eventually they no longer produce. A machine cuts the steps, designs the vineyard. It is very difficult. They are not allowed to add water once the plants are in the ground. They have to ask permission to add water in a drought. They have 100 acres here. There is year-round work on the farm. There is always something to do. Workers are from the village. They pick them up and bring them here.
HELPFUL HINT: Make sure to pack a hat! The sun is very strong in this region and if you are blessed with good weather, you will be grateful for having brought head gear. Quinta Farm in PicturesPort & Wine ProductionWe have a tour of the farm that includes an overview of their wine production. They do every part of production here, including bottling.
Duoro River ValleyAs we depart the quinta, Cristina tells us it is said, "God created the world but man created the Duoro Valley." The town we are going to is Pinhão, pronounced PEEN-yow. The most beautiful thing about it is the rail station with tiles. It comes off a bit like a warning so we don't know what to expect. Of course when we we depart the bus, our mouths are agape. The hotel, which is more like a resort, is gorgeous. And we have the rest of the day to relaaaaaaaax.
Did you know ... Portuguese is the 6th most spoken language in the world. |
Tour GuidanceCristina tells us there is no wine served at dinner this evening. If we want anything to drink, we should buy it from the farm. When we arrive at the hotel, they will label it and bring it to us when we are seated.
Back Door DiscoveriesMeeting Teresa today for the tour of their family quinta is spectacular. The countryside is just gorgeous and having her provide background on the production helps connect us to the wine.
What doesn't kill you fattens you up
The estate lunch was very special. Beginning with a toast, we ate delicious food paired with wines from the estate. It was typical Portuguese cuisine from this region - beans, sausage, pork and cod.
Fale em portugues, por favorToday's word is De nada = You're welcome. It is pronounced deh-NAH-dah.
Lessons LearnedWe packed portable wine glasses and a cork screw. We pulled them out during our long bus ride and enjoyed a glass of wine and some snacks while we took in the scenery. Someone remarked that they wished they had thought of that. Vintage House Hotel is a luxurious sanctuary for our travel-weary souls. The rooms are spacious with stunning views of the Duoro River. The French doors in our bedroom open to a terrace where we enjoyed coffee while watching the sunrise. The grounds are magnificent. There are lavender bushes lining the pathways and lemon trees shading the courtyard. After checking in, we make a beeline for the pool where we sit on lounge chairs beneath big white umbrellas. The climate is optimal for a swim. This is paradise!
Portuguese FaceliftCristina showed Caryl how to do a Portuguese facelift. On the left is before and on the right is after. It entails literally pulling your skin back and holding it with your hands. This tells you quite a bit about Cristina, her sense of humor, her humanness. She is wonderful.
Quinta Farm LunchWe are all seated in an a room with a view of the winery. The tables set for eight have red and white checkered cloths. We begin with white port, cheese, meat, bread, olive oil. Teresa teaches us a five senses toast as we sip our first wine and eat our appetizers. Then we have a baked cod dish that contains potatoes, kale, béchamel, carrots and cheese. It is served with a beautiful white wine. Next we have stew with kidney beans, smoked sausage, onion, celery, pork, carrots and red wine. This is served with a robust red. For dessert we are offered orange cake with crema and fresh oranges. And of course we finish this with port.
Five Senses ToastWe do this toast, concentrating on each of the five senses, to fully appreciate what we are about to consume. Taste - What we taste in the wine. Our tongue perceives four things:
Sight - What we see in the wine - the color, opacity, clarity and brilliance. Touch - What we feel related to wine: mouth feel, temperature, burning sensation, bubbles. Sound - This is what we hear when we are drinking wine, the conviviality, sipping, and the clinking of the glass as we toast. Lazy AnimalsIt's a warm day and we find the farm animals escaping the sun by lying on stone beneath the shade.
Ronaldo FeverSomeone saw this candy bar and picked it up to bring home to her grandson. Carlos Queiroz has been quoted as saying, "Portugal have a national team called Cristiano Ronaldo and a group of players who run after him." Ronaldo was born in Madeira in one of the poorest communities on the island. Football was always part of his life. Though he was like the other kids, he was also different. He avoided studying so he could play football. He is arrogant but it comes from being told he's the best.
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We checked into the hotel, dropped off our wine for dinner, dumped our bags and donned our bathing suits. The weather cooperated beautifully for us. It is a treat to do nothing, especially knowing we are heading to the city for our final two nights on this tour. So relax we do.
Vintage House Hotel in Pictures
Pinhão
The town of Pinhão really is nothing but a train station. The buildings nearby are rundown. It has the feel of a deserted western town. There are no shops or restaurants within sight. The rail station has some of the most gorgeous tiles we've seen Portugual. It's a sweet spot, with pretty plants and a great view.
Pinhão in Pictures
Group Dinner
Our group dinner was arranged in the hotel dining room. We enjoyed a buffet with soup, mixed green salad, pasta salad with tuna, potato patties, and a variety of mini sandwiches. We drank this with the wine we purchased at the two quintas we visited.