Dia 2: Neighborhoods of Lisbon
Break of FastThe breakfast scene is different the morning after a tour kicks off. Suddenly we are surrounded by acquaintances instead of strangers. Everyone greets each other with bright smiles. Some sit together and build deeper connections. Others are heads down, planning their free time activities. We finish eating and load our day packs with essentials as we have a full itinerary ahead of us. Our 8:30 meeting in the lobby begins with a "buddy check" and then we are off.
HELPFUL HINT: Buddy Check - When our guide prompts us, we look around and make eye contact with our buddies. Some create a signal, such as a wave or the "I've got my eyes on you" gesture. The purpose is to ensure everyone is accounted for. On the rare occasion a buddy is missing, it's important to notify your tour guide immediately. Don't take this responsibility lightly. Old LisbonWe start our walking tour in Baixa, translated as "Lower Town". We learn north/south are norte/sul and exit is saida. This will help guide us when we are navigating Lisbon on our own. We stroll along tree-lined Avenida da Liberdade, formerly the city's royal boulevard. Today it is flanked with bleachers where the current President will sit and watch the parade this evening. On our way to Rossio Square, Cristina tells us of the triple disaster that hit Lisbon in 1755 beginning with an estimated nine magnitude earthquake. The city suffered further damage from the ensuing tsunami and fires. The Marquis of Pombal rebuilt the city on a grid plan with earthquake-proof buildings and broad avenues. His assistant asked if the streets were perhaps too wide. A visionary, he replied, "Someday they will not be wide enough."
Next we visit the old grocery store Manteigaria Silva that sells - along with fresh fruit and dried beans, meats and cheeses, canned fish, wine, nuts, jams and pastries - a variety of bacalhau (dried, salted codfish). Cristina tells us that every Portuguese woman knows 365 ways to prepare it. It is not native to Portugal but is shipped from Norway and Iceland. Bacalhau is a big part off their culture. She is not kidding. We have been here only three days and have eaten it five times already.
HELPFUL HINT: in Portugal store names ending "aria" is the place of "x". For instance "fritaria" is the place of fruit and "pastelaria" is the place of pastries. Further down the lane we come to a square called Largo de São Domingos with a small stone monument embedded with a Jewish star, a memorial to those who were victims of religious intolerance. In April 1506, a massacre called the Easter Slaughter took place on this square and resulted in the deaths of thousands of "New Christians" - Portuguese Jews forced to convert by King Manuel I a decade earlier. In a city struck by drought and the plague, residents needed to assign blame. The New Christians were accused of heresy and beaten to death. Cristina translates the words etched onto the metal plate, "O earth, cover not thou my blood, and let my cry have no place." Today, this square is a gathering place for African immigrants. We walk a few feet to the Church of São Domingos and learn the 1755 earthquake took place on All Saints Day during Mass. The church walls crushed the faithful as they prayed. Soot from the after-fires still mars the interior, distinguishing the old part of the building from the new.
It's time for some levity. Cristina points out two watering holes that sell the famous ginjinha (pronounced zheen-JAH). She tells us one is the oldest but the other is arguably the best.We have a woman named Giny in our group and we unofficially name the liquor after her. We are not tasting today but we will come back later to purchase some to bring home to the States.
Did you know ... sardines are the symbol for the Feast of St. Anthony festivities? St. Anthony is the most revered patron saint of Lisbon - and he is their great matchmaker. To celebrate there will be mass marriages, parties, dancing, music, and a parade. Makeshift stands will be selling sangria, wine, beer and - of course - grilled sardines. |
Tour GuidanceCristina orients us on how to navigate our way around Lisbon. She shows us the metro station nearest to our hotel - Avenida. She also warns of the crowds that will descend Lisbon this evening for the festival and how to move about to ensure we can get back to our hotel.
Back Door DiscoveriesToday we are treated to a private Fado dinner in the Casa do Alentejo. When we enter we find ourselves in a magnificent Moorish style foyer with intricate tiles, live palm trees and a working fountain. We enjoy an intimate 4-course dinner with wine followed by a soulful Fado performance. The singers are beautiful, their voices sorrowful and strong. It is quite moving, many in our group riveted and quietly wiping away tears.
What doesn't kill you fattens you up
Today our food experiences are a contrast in good and bad.
Fale em portugues, por favorToday's word is azulejo = tile, pronounced "ah-zoo-le-zhoo". A sign posted at the National Tile Museum states: "From the Arab word azzelij or al zuleycha, which means 'small polished stone', refers to a ceramic piece, usually squared, with one side glazed".
Lessons LearnedDon't be afraid to use your navigation app! A small group of us are looking at printed maps and trying to figure out how to get from Alfama to the National Tile Museum when Sharon, one of our more seasoned travelers, whips out her iPhone and punches in the address on Google Maps. We follow her like moths to light. Later on our own, we rely on this several times to get around and it causes far fewer arguments. Lunch at Adega do AtumParade along Avenida da LiberdadeAnd the end of they day, Cristina helps us all get where we want to be. Some will go deep into the festival activities, some will return to the hotel. For us, we decide to hike back to the Avenida da Liberdade to watch the parade. We learn the dance teams spend a whole year practicing for this one moment and that a winner will be selected. There is also a bride pageant, where all the women married en masse today will march in their beautiful dresses.
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Baixa in Pictures
São Jorge Castle
We board a shuttle bus for the trip up to São Jorge Castle. When we arrive at the base, Cristina hands us tickets and we push through the turnstile one-by-one. As we stroll up a small incline to the terrace, the skyline comes into view and we are rewarded with a magnificent view of the city. The castle itself is really a ruins site and you must imagine how the hollowed interior must have looked in the 11th century. We can walk along the sloped castle walls accessible via narrow, railing-less, uneven stone steps. It is not for the faint of heart. Some of us remain below while others brave the climb. There are gnarled olive trees dotted throughout the grounds and a strong wind blows through the area, rustling the leaves and stirring up dust. There are preening peacocks vying for our attention. Or maybe they are ignoring us, but they are so exotic and beautiful it's difficult to pass without pausing for the show.
São Jorge Castle in Pictures
Alfama
We leave the castle by foot and explore the maze-like streets of the Alfama neighborhoods. We learn that Alfama is named for the water - springs on the hill. We pass by homes that are in ruins and walls crumbling. They are covered with vibrant graffiti that we learn is part of the local street art scene. In fact throughout Lisbon there are colorful and moving murals on facades and buildings. This area feels more authentic and inhabited by locals, less touristy. Peering up we see tiny balconies with baskets of plants, shaded by hand umbrellas. Homes are decorated with pictures of saints and the deceased.
As we stroll through the colorful neighborhoods - the maize-like streets, the narrow alleys - we see locals setting up stands for the evening and we learn about the festival, the grilled sardines and sausages that will be sold, the beer that party revelers will be consuming, how to purchase them, what things will cost, what the crowd will be like. We learn why the festival is important and why sardines are the symbol. We stop by a church and see a film crew. A beautiful bride and groom step out of limo. Many couples will be married today in a mass ceremony. This, too, is part of the celebration. We would not have known this on our own ... and the reason we are on a guided tour. For a look through the backdoor.
Alfama in Pictures
Free Time
Cristina announces free time and provides a few suggestions. She reminds us that we are meeting back in the hotel lobby at 7:30 pm for diner. The group splinters at this point. Some are huddled, inspecting guidebooks. Others are confirming directions and hours with Cristina. We had planned to tour the tile museum but are not sure how to get there. We learn others are headed that way and we congregate together over a map, trying to get our bearing. James determines we need to board a bus that we think will drop us off on a side street near the museum. Turns out he is right, but his is half the fun - unsure of where we are going, making mistakes, learning as we go.
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Dinner and Fado
We leave the tile museum sated, a little weary, and in need of some rest. We head back to our hotel for quick naps and to change for dinner. This is a special evening so we decide to get glammed up a bit. And we are glad we did. The building is stunning. We sit at round tables set for eight, covered with white cloths. Even though we enjoyed the company of our companions from the previous evening, we choose to sit with different people tonight. We like to get to know everyone on the tour and dinner is a great opportunity to do that. Tonight we dine with the foursome who reign from a part of the country where we formerly lived. We enjoy a delicious 4-course meal with all the wine we could want. And then the Fado singers come in. The music is mournful, the singers beautiful both to look at and to listen to. It's a magical evening and we are grateful to have experienced it.