Dia 6: Royal Intrigue, Alcobaça, and Nazaré
Halfway MarkWow, we cannot believe it's day 6 - halfway through the tour! We are in the groove now, making connections with other tour members, becoming more knowledgeable about Portugal, linking the history lessons to the places we're visiting, feeling more confident to venture out on our own. This morning we are heading to Alcobaça - a place we know virtually nothing about. As she does with every new location, Cristina has posted our itinerary in the lobby. We prepare for our 8:45 departure and head out by bus.
HELPFUL HINT: Practice Bus Etiquette. We don't use the bathroom on board. There are stops along the way so there is no need to "go" except in the case of an emergency. Also be conscientious and relocate your seats from time to time to ensure everyone has an opportunity to sit up front. Mercado MunicipalWe learn there are 26k people living in Alcobaça (pronounced akl-koh-BAH-sah). It is geographically located 20 minutes from the sea and an hour from Lisbon so it is not uncommon for city dwellers to have a second home here. Chintz fabric and porcelain china come from this region. Porcelain is made from white clay, which is tough to break when fired.
We are a 5-minute walk to the market when the bus deposits us near the town center. We enter a large covered space with crude metal tables set up in rows, crates stacked full of fresh colorful produce, cages with live animals, tables covered in brown paper and stacked with today's catch. Shoppers speak with vendors as if they are lifelong friends. They stop, kiss other shoppers, catch up on gossip. This is daily life in Alcobaça.
Alcobaça Market in PicturesMosteiro de Santa MariaWe walk up the road another 5 minutes and reach the town center and monastery. It is a pleasing and pristine little town. We learn the monastery was a gift from King Afonso I to Bernard of Clairvaux. We hear the tragic love story of Pedro and Inês. Pedro married Inês in secret against his father's wishes. His father, the king, had her murdered and two years after her death, Pedro made a tomb to honor her. At the bottom of her tomb are the faces of the guilty that carried out the crime. Pedro's tomb is also in the monastery.
Mosteiro de Santa Maria in PicturesNazaréWe leave Alcobaça and drive 20 minutes toNazaré. We pull alongside the curb and pile out onto the main walkway. The sky is cloudless and perfectly azure with a light breeze that whips our hair. On the golden beach beside us are rows of wooden frames strung with nets, a variety of fish splayed out in the sun to dry, some merchants keeping a close watch. Mark takes off like a bullet across the sand to the water's edge. The surfer in him tests a toe and discovers it's much too cold to venture any further. He knows this area is famous for its waves but today the ocean is calm and glassy. The cliffs in the distance are impressive and stunning, white buildings with red tile roofs peeking out above them.
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Tour GuidanceNazaré is small, seemingly easy to navigate with one main road and skinny arteries that bring you to restaurants and shops. But it's connected to the cliffs by a funicular, which required explanation. Cristina gave us instructions to help us return to the lower part of town. She has even purchased tickets in advance, which she distributes when we break for lunch.
Back Door DiscoveriesCristina guided us through the local market in Alcobaça, a personal insider's guide to a day-in-the-life of a Portuguese resident. Having visited several markets in Europe - some much slicker and camera ready, it was refreshing to see the rustic and down-to-earth version.
What doesn't kill you fattens you up
We enjoyed a wonderful seafood lunch at the recommended Restaurante O Luis in Sítio. We shared a table with Sharon and James. We all had generous bowls of fish stew.
Fale em portugues, por favorToday's word is amigo/a = friend. The pronunciation differs slightly from it's Spanish cousin - ah-MEE-goo.
Lessons LearnedBring your own headphones (the type that plug into a mobile phone) to use with the whisper devices. The ones provided are flimsy, disposable and don't transmit well. We only had our Bluetooth versions so we were out of luck but wiser tour members brought their own and fared much better. Prayer of St. Bernard REMEMBER, O most gracious Virgin Mary, that never was it known that anyone who fled to thy protection, implored thy help, or sought thy intercession was left unaided. Inspired with this confidence, I fly to thee, O Virgin of virgins, my Mother; to thee do I come; before thee I stand, sinful and sorrowful. O Mother of the Word Incarnate, despise not my petitions, but in thy mercy hear and answer me. Amen. Sweet!Christina lets us loose after we visit the monastery. We have a few minutes to shop, take pictures, enjoy a snack. We stop at a bakery she recommends, Pastelaria Alcôa. Although the shop is modern and attractive, nothing compares to the treats we've had the past few days so we are not impressed.
Seafood FeastAfter we sampled percebes we have free time for lunch. Cristina offers recommendations. We decide on Restaurante O Luis since salty sea air has us craving seafood. Sharon and James invite us to join them since we are all headed in the same direction. We are in the district of Sítio and do not have far to walk. We wind our way up the hill and find the circular shaped building on a corner. It's a lively place with shades of citrus and blue, fish tank against a back wall, big platters, boats and clay pots full of seafood being passed around. We all order the sopa da peixe - fish soup, which is loaded with fish and other seafood. There are soft golden potatoes, green peppers, caramelized onions, and a flavorful rich broth. Sharon and James are great company, both a lot of fun and well traveled.
FunicularThe neighborhood that sits atop the cliffs is called Sítio. The bus drops us at the top during our tour, but to return to the beach we have to take the funicular. It's essentially a lift (called ascensor on the signs and ticket) and it moves both up/down. The capacity is 40 people and transports every 15 minutes. We board easily and it takes only a few minutes to descend.
I Scream, You ScreamMark remarked that he's been in Europe for six days and he hasn't had any gelato yet. So when in Rome, or Paris, or Nazaré ... it's ice cream time.
Go Portugal!Carlos and Cristina have decorated our bus with banners to support the Portuguese football team in this year's World Cup!
Group DinnerCristina has arranged our group dinner tonight at Restaurante Pretensioso, a quaint place tucked away in a quiet corner. There's a pretty courtyard with bistro seating under the canopy of a huge citrus tree. We are dining indoors beneath white brick arches and tables dressed in burgundy. George and Sandra have asked to join us for dinner. We spend time with another lovely couple and find we have more in common than we expect. Like Amy, Sandra loves to cook and she turns out bread, jams and other delicious home cooked items with fruits and herbs from her farm. We have a flavorful vegetable soup to open the meal, followed by chicken stew served over mashed potatoes. Dessert is panna cotta with cherry chocolate sauce and chocolate cups with ginjinha.
Did you know ... Nazaré comes from the name of the Holy Land - Nazareth. |
Barnacles!
Another day, another treat. Cristina gathers us around a vendor selling percebes, or as we say, barnacles. She shows us how to eat them by pinching the foot and pulling the inner tube out of its casing. Then twist off the claw and slip down the flesh in one push. It has the texture of a clam strip and tastes like the sea.
Nazaré in Pictures
Flower Bedecked Óbidos
After touring Nazaré, we head back to Óbidos. We have some time on our own and we head out in search of souvenirs. We purchase some ceramics and tiles with cork. The sky is clear and makes for better photos. We take many of the gorgeous flowering vines that hug the buildings. We stretch out on the pool deck to soak up the sun and the amazing views. From here we have an excellent vista. It's amazing to see the busyness of the town inside the walls. And then it's time to get ready for dinner. We change into nicer clothes and meet our fellow tour members in the lobby. Amigo/a seems a fitting word for the day as we create memories with these strangers who are becoming friends.