Dia 7: Batalha and Fátima
Sunday MassIt is Sunday and as luck would have it, we are visiting Fátima today. This is meaningful for Caryl, who is Catholic and does not like to miss Mass. We are early risers so we find it easy to be ready on time. What is becoming more difficult is packing the evening prior to check out. We have begun collecting souvenirs, which are filling the extra space in our bags. Also, we need to launder a few items so things are no longer in their compact folds. We have to be creative to make everything fit ... But we manage. The next morning after breakfast, we meet at the scheduled time and roll our bags out to the bus. Boarding goes quickly now - it's routine - and we are on the road before 8:45.
HELPFUL HINT: Take a picture of the itineraries that your tour guide posts in the hotel lobby. You can refer to them later when you have to recall meeting times or other details. Batalha MonasteryWe are visiting Batalha, pronounced bah-TAHL-yah to see the monastery. We learn the town's name means "battle". Our guidebook tell of the two armies that "faced off on the rolling plains here to decide Portugal's future - independence or rule by Spanish kings." Portugal's King João (or John) built the Monastery of Santa Maria da Vitória to thank the Virgin Mary and to commemorate his victory against the Spanish Castilian king's army. It was constructed at the end of the 1300's and completed in the 1800's. At 96 feet, it is the highest church in Portugal.
Tomb of the Unknown SoldierOur first stop inside the monastery is to the Chapter Room where we find two honor guards standing alongside a cordoned off section, a battle-worn crucifix hanging between them. Beneath the star-vaulted ceiling and lit by the Monumental Lamp named "Flame of the Mother Country", the bodies of two WWI soldiers are laid to rest. One met his end in Africa's theater of war. The other died in the battlefields of Flanders. There is a wreath of poppies resting on the base of the lamp in a nod to the first line of the poem "In Flanders Fields", written by WWI Canadian officer and surgeon John McCrae. We arrive in time to witness the changing of the guard ceremony. It is riveting in both its formality and somber silence from the onlookers. In a gesture that will create one of the most moving moments of our tour, Cristina asks our Canadian, Shelia, to read aloud the poem by McCrae. This is an unscripted moment of bonding and we wipe away tears as Sheila's voice, attempting to restrain emotion, fills the space in our circle of friends.
We leave the Chapter Room to visit Founders' Chapel and see the double sarcophagus of King João I and his wife, Queen Filipa de Lencastre. We gaze up at the octagonal dome in the ceiling and follow the light streaming from the arched stained glass windows as it casts a heavenly glow over the tomb.
We stroll through an arched walkway to the Royal Cloister, gazing through the columned windows, each with lacy Manueline-style decorations. In the courtyard we see tall cypress trees and clipped hedgerow. There are children there now, running up and down the dirt lanes, twirling around the fountain. Oh, to be young again and able to act on impulse!
We exit the monastery and learn about the gargoyles - some obscene - sticking out from near the roof line. It is believed the artists employed creative freedom to dispense social criticism over events happening around the world in their time.
Batalha Monastery in PicturesFátimaOur visit to Fátima, pronounced FAH-tee-mah, comes with a great deal of mystique. We have heard the story of the Virgin Mary appearing in an oak tree for three farm children, promising peace. Our guidebook tells a beautiful version of this tale. But seeing Fátima in person is different than reading about it. We stroll down the esplanade and to our left is the Basilica of Our Lady of Fátima. We hear music and a priest giving mass. The choir is in the basilica; speakers outside stream the sounds. Many people are gathered around. Some are crawling on their knees toward the church in pilgrimage. Cristina tells us, "They kneel and how they move is up to their own discussion with Our Lady." They may look to be in pain but they are happy. She shares several ways for us to enjoy our time here. There is the basilica with mosaics and statues where we are able to light a candle in memory of a loved one. The church to our right - the Church of the Holy Trinity - was inspired by St. Peter's in Rome and has a capacity of 8,000. Because of its round shape, it uses less electricity. It has something to do with the earth's rotation. We can go in search of food and shopping, or if we wish to receive communion, Cristina tells us to look for the white umbrellas.
We follow the white umbrellas as Cristina instructed and queue up in line. People huddle close together and gently "push" forward. We watch for a moment to see the process and then we move to the gate when the opportunity opens. The priest makes his way over to us and we receive communion. We step away and then, for some inconceivable reason, we get emotional and begin to cry. Maybe there really is something miraculous to this place.
Did you know ... Fátima is a place of silence. People come to meditate and pray, and we keep silent so as not to disturb the prayer of others. |
Tour GuidanceCristina describes the scene at Fátima and shares with us different ways of exploring this religious site. For us, we appreciate her providing us instruction on how to receive communion. We don't know that we would be as brave to try it without her guidance.
Back Door DiscoveriesThe Changing of the Guard ceremony is memorable because of how Cristina brings in the poem by having Sheila read it to our group. Ironic that our backdoor discovery comes from within our own community.
What doesn't kill you fattens you up
We have really been enjoying our group dinners on this tour. Cristina is doing a nice job of selecting restaurants and menus that are quintessentially Portuguese. And tonight's dinner is no exception. The Carpaccio de Carne is an unexpected hit - thinly sliced raw beef with shaved Pecorino, celery, mushrooms and seasoned with salt and pepper. Our main course is roasted sea bass and porchetta with crackling skin (we shared entrées so that we could try them both). We have roasted potatoes and salada mista served family style. Dessert is apple pie and ice cream. Bottles of red and white wine are available to us throughout the meal.
Fale em portugues, por favorToday's word is delicioso = delicious. It is pronounced deh-lee-see-OH-zoo. By now we are able to detect the similarities to the other romance languages but it has its own spin that makes it sound almost Eastern European.
Lessons LearnedHave a rough plan for lunch when touring with the group all day. When we have a break, it's rarely enough time to sit down and eat a full meal. We've been caught short-footed on three different occasions now and have wasted time walking around in circles. It's easier on both our bellies and wallets to grab a snack from a nearby cafe and save our appetite for dinner. Riversuites is our home base for the next two nights. The location is convenient. We are near a busy roundabout a short walk across the Santa Clara bridge to the heart of Coimbra. Our room is the smallest and least charming of all the places we've stayed so far but it faces the street and and we have a great view of the city. We wrestled - literally - with the shower hose as it spurted around the small stall like a serpent with a mind of its own. Otherwise the place is very comfortable. The staff here bend over backwards to make us comfortable. They greeted us at the door when we arrived, insisting on carrying our bags to our room. The layout is a bit strange, kind of zig-zag. We go down, then up, then down again to reach the breakfast room.
In Flanders Fields John McCrae, 1872 - 1918 In Flanders fields the poppies blow Between the crosses, row on row, That mark our place; and in the sky The larks, still bravely singing, fly Scarce heard amid the guns below. We are the Dead. Short days ago We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow, Loved and were loved, and now we lie, In Flanders fields. Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high. If ye break faith with us who die We shall not sleep, though poppies grow In Flanders fields. LunchCristina provided directions to a few places for lunch. We got lost (did I mention we are terrible with directions?) - and we spent a lot of time circling the block. With time running short, we decide to sit at the first place we could find a free table. We had to beg for quick service but did receive it. We ordered ham and cheese panini. It was ... better than eating at McDonald's.
LaundryWe are at that point in our trip where we need to freshen up some staples: socks, t-shirts and undergarments. The weather is ideal for us to clean items in the bathroom sink and then dry by the open window. We are here for two nights so we will do it in batches. We always pack a flat rubber sink stopper, portable line that doesn't require clothespins, and some liquid detergent. We also pack scented softener sheets to keep our luggage fresh until we are able to tackle the job.
Flower PowerMother nature is the best artist in the world. We see this flower in bloom and have to snap a picture. Behind it, a new bud is reaching up, getting ready for it's turn to shine.
Monkey See, Monkey DoAcross from Batalha there is a small square lined with shops and restaurants. Amy sees a chef statue and mimics his pose.
Gelato ReduxRight outside our hotel is a gelato shop. We greet the owner in Italian (buona sera) and to our surprise, he replies in same. We learn he is originally from Italy and he's living here in Coimbra now. And he makes killer gelatao.
World Cup 2018 - Brazil vs. SwitzerlandThere are lots of Brazilian students in Coimbra. A large mass is gathered along a street to watch the game. There is a feeling of revelry and if Brazil wins, they will be partying all night.
Group DinnerCristina has made reservations for us at Solar do Bacalhau. We enter a space that has a staircase with a grand chandelier at the top and dried cod hanging near the kitchen. We are seated in a space near the back with exposed stone walls and tables dressed in white. Tonight we dine with Joseph & Helene, a couple we haven't spent much time with yet but who are inspiring and lovely to talk with, Sharon & James who we are drawn to for their travel tales and outgoing nature, and solo traveler Mike.
While we were dining, we noticed a man standing in the alley outside the restaurant, peeking in the window behind our table. We soon realized he was sneaking a glimpse of the soccer game being shown on the television screen positioned above the bar opposite us.
|
Coimbra University
We leave Fátima and drive to Coimbra. We have a few hours after we check in to take naps, shower and change our clothes. We meet our group and board the bus. Carlos is taking us up the hill to the university. We see the Santa Clara Bridge across from our hotel. Cristina points out the pedestrian bridge we will cross to reach the Praça do Comércio. We look to our left and see mini Portugal - literally the great buildings and monuments of Portugal in miniature. The architect, Cassiano Branco, never married. He said, "I would rather make many women happy than one woman unhappy." Earlier this week, we heard the tragic tale of Pedro and Inês and now we discover it is a Coimbra love story. Pedro was seeing Inês on the side in Coimbra while married to her cousin Constance.
We pull up outside the University main entrance where Cristina introduces us to another Cristina, our local guide. She tells us the students party all year and there are celebrations before exams. There are 22k students and 150k inhabitants living in Coimbra. It's mostly student life here: cheap eats and not many cultural events. Tuition is $2k per year for in-state students and $7k per year for international students.
Did you know ... There is a Portuguese expression called saudade. It is almost untranslatable but can best be described as the "presence of absence." It is an awareness of the absence of something that puts you in a state of sadness, like a form of yearning or being homesick.
Inside the university, we walk along the narrow hallways and peek into the Grand Hall, a deep red room where they hold ceremonies. It is amazing to be glimpsing modern life in a building from 1290. We walk through formal rooms that are bright with tiles in blue and yellow. Antique chairs and paintings are placed throughout, some roped off like museum artifacts. We see the chapel and take seats as we learn about the 2100-pipe organ from the 18th century. We are able to go out on the catwalk where we take in a magnificent view of the city. We enter King João's Library. There is a restriction on the number of people that may enter at once and you must have a reservation. It is a grand and historic space, ornate and covered in gold. We learn there are bats in here that eat insects that would otherwise eat pages from these ancient books. To cap off the visit, we enter the student library with rich dark wood and stone walls. The students are able to check out books that are hundreds of years old. It is a stunning collection.
Coimbra University in Pictures
Coimbra Old Town
We end our day with a walk through old town. This is our kind of city with its pedestrian friendly streets and youthful energy. There are skinny buildings in pastel colors that edge narrow cobbled lanes with archways and iron balconies. Cafés, restaurants and appealing shops line the street as we stroll by. It's easy to navigate (translated = less chance we will get lost), has peek-a-boo alleys and curious archways. The tour winds down at our restaurant for this evening, a dark red building with wooden planters filled with sunny marigolds and white hydrangeas in white ceramic pots. The sun is beginning to set as we enter beneath a regal green sign in red and gold lettering that says Solar du Bacalhau, another wonderful day on this tour winding to a close.