Dia 8: Classic Coimbra
Ceramic Tile factoryAnother day, another early start right after breakfast. We board the bus for a short ride to a tile factory. This is truly a backdoor experience because the factory generally is not open to visitors. The owner, Antonio, is a friend of Cristina's and he has generously agreed to host us.
The tile factory has 27 people employed, mostly women. The average work life is 5 years because it is physically demanding. You must have a gift for painting. This will become painfully clear to us when we try our hands at painting tiles later this morning. The molds that shape the pottery are made of plaster, not stone. After they are painted, they are glazed and then they go in an 800° oven. After firing, they are tested for cracks by knocking. This process catches flaws that the eye cannot see. We watch one painter decorate a vase. It will take her 2.5 hours to finish. Turn over a finished piece of authentic Coimbria pottery and find the painter's signature.
Unleashing our CreativityOn our itinerary today is an unexpected treat. We are able to paint our own tiles. We sit at tables of 5 or 6 and let the creative juices flow. It's so much more difficult than it looks and we are even more impressed with the delicate brush strokes the professionals display. We try and stay in the lines but paint bleeds beyond them, our hands less steady and our patience too thin. We splatter dots of color on areas we intended to keep white. Regardless, this is fun. We are looking forward to bringing home our "masterpieces".
As we leave the tile factory, Cristina tells the story of a previous tour member who painted not one, not two, but three tiles. They were rudimentary, childlike. He ran each with a splash of color, an abstract swoosh of the brush. He was an older gentleman travelling solo. Curious, she asked why he wanted to make three tiles. In the sweetest voice and with sad eyes, he told her they were for his children. As we were all thinking what a nice gesture, she finished her story. He told her, "All my life I collected their shit. Now I can give them mine." Conímbriga Roman Ruins Museum & Roman Ruins SiteWe are visiting ruins in Coimbriga. Our guide book tells us they are the best in Portugal. "Briga" at the end of a name means it's Celtic. Amphitheater is from a Greek word meaning "around". We see indentations on the cliff where inhabitants would sit. What is most impressive about this site is the mosaic flooring. It's wonderfully intact, even the colors still remain. The amount of detail and skill necessary to complete these is awe-inspiring when you consider the times.
Did you know ... the word SPA is actually an acronym for the Latin word Salus Per Aquam The Casa dos Repuxos (or House of Fountains) contains beautiful mosaic floors that tell the story of what life was like. Cristina turns on the fountains and water spouts out from the boxes filled with plants. It creates a peaceful, calming ambiance.
Afternoon in CoimbraWith the afternoon free, we go back into Coimbra and search for finished pottery made by the artists we met this morning. There are a few stores that will give us a discount for having been at the factory. We poke around until we find the items painted by Teresa. They will have so much more meaning for our having met the artisan.
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Tour GuidanceDon't be late! Two tour members lost track of time yesterday and were late returning to the bus. We discovered they were missing through a buddy check. Cristina phoned them, and fortunately, reached them. They hurriedly made their way back but it did cut into our free time. It's a good lesson for us all to make sure we are aware of the itinerary, that are watches are synced and we use alarms if necessary.
Back Door DiscoveriesThe Tile Factory tour was very special. We were so fortunate to learn about the process, to have the whole place to ourselves. It helped us not only appreciate this craft but also understand why the pieces are more expensive than the imported ones made in a manufacturing plant.
What doesn't kill you fattens you up
Lunch at Hamburgaria Maneirista was so lovely. It was a relaxed time, sharing plates of appetizers. We nibbled on moons of fried goat cheese with sour cherry dipping sauce; roasted prawns in olive oil and garlic; octopus salad, stuffed mushrooms with cream sauce and potatoes fried in duck fat.
Fale em portugues, por favorToday's word is Saúde!= Cheers! It is pronounced sah-OO-deh. This is what we say when we clink wine glasses in a toast.
Lessons LearnedDon't rush to purchase souvenirs. We bought a few items in Lisbon and have been lugging them around with us the past 10 days. We should have waited until the latter part of our tour to do our shopping, especially for common items such as tiles that are available everywhere. Gathering Outside the HotelIt is morning and we are waiting for everyone to come down before we board the bus. It is supposed to be a hot day and we are visiting ruins, so shorts seemed fitting.
Blind KittyThis blind cat adopted the tile factory. She is curious and seems to like people. It is wild to see her use her other senses to move around. They have big open spaces here so it's probably easier to avoid bumping into things.
Conímbriga Roman Ruins in Pictures
Sweet SurpriseThese Coimbra pastries made with ground almonds are called Pasteis de Lorvão and they came courtesy of two tour members who were late for the bus during our visit to Fátima yesterday. It was their apology for holding us up while we waited for them. Yum! Apology accepted!
Lunch on our OwnCristina recommends some options for lunch. We are hungry so decide to go to Hamburgueria Maneirista, a small place with great ambiance close to the hotel. They are known for their hamburgers (of course they are - this is a college town). But we are here for their tapas.
Flower MeadowThis is a "meadow" of flowers we see beside the bridge on our way to the heart of Coimbra.
Made in Portugal by Teresa |
Coimbra Fado Performance
Cristina has arranged for a performance byFado ao Centro, an all male ensemble. Fado in Coimbra is mostly sung by men from - you guessed it - students of the university. We are told they have a saying here: "Coimbra is more charming when we say goodbye." And it's told in their song. At the end of the show, we go into a courtyard and sip port, mingling with the singers.
Cristina led us in a toast, saying, "Saúde! Now to us, to all of us, to our musicians, and to all of us. Saúde!"
Dinner with a View
We hear from others on our tour that there is a restaurant with an awesome view of Coimbra. We wind our way up stairs and find seats on the terrace. The food is mediocre but we are here to watch the sun set over this city.